Choosing the right tools for your kitchen can feel overwhelming, especially when it comes to knives. This practical buying guide on How To Pick Good Kitchen Knives will simplify the process and give you the confidence to choose blades that work for you.
A great knife isn’t just about price or looks. It’s about how it feels in your hand and how it performs on your daily tasks. With the right information, you can build a set that lasts for years and makes cooking safer and more enjoyable. Let’s break down exactly what you need to know.
How To Pick Good Kitchen Knives
The core of picking good knives is understanding a few key principles. You don’t need a huge block full of twenty knives. Most home cooks can handle 95% of their tasks with just three or four high-quality blades. Focus on getting these essentials right first.
Understanding Knife Construction
How a knife is made determines its durability, sharpness, and ease of care. There are two main methods.
Forged vs. Stamped Knives
* Forged Knives: These are made from a single piece of heated steel that is hammered and shaped. They typically have a thick bolster (the collar between blade and handle) for balance and safety. They are heavier, more durable, and often (but not always) higher in price.
* Stamped Knives: These are cut from a large sheet of steel, like a cookie cutter, then sharpened and hardened. They are lighter, more flexible, and usually more affordable. Modern stamped knives from good brands can be excellent performers.
Full Tang vs. Partial Tang
The “tang” is the part of the metal blade that extends into the handle. A full tang runs the entire length and width of the handle, visible as a metal spine sandwiched between handle scales. This provides superior balance, strength, and durability. A partial tang only goes partway into the handle. For a long-lasting, sturdy knife, a full tang is generally preferred.
The Steel Matters: Decoding Blade Material
The type of steel used affects how sharp a knife can get, how long it holds that edge, and how resistant it is to rust.
* High-Carbon Stainless Steel: This is the sweet spot for most home cooks. It combines carbon (for edge retention and sharpness) with chromium (for stain and rust resistance). It’s durable, relatively easy to sharpen, and won’t discolor like pure carbon steel.
* Stainless Steel: Very resistant to rust and corrosion, but often softer metal. This means it may dull faster and require more frequent honing, though it’s usually easy to sharpen.
* High-Carbon Steel: Gets extremely sharp and holds its edge beautifully. However, it reacts with acidic foods (like onions or tomatoes) and can rust and discolor easily if not dried immediately. It requires more maintenance.
* Damascus Steel: Often refers to a layered, patterned steel that is usually clad over a core of another, harder steel (like VG-10). It’s primarily aesthetic but often indicates a high-quality core blade.
Hardness (HRC): This Rockwell scale number tells you how hard the steel is. A higher HRC (e.g., 58-62) means the knife will hold an edge longer but can be more brittle and tricky to sharpen. A lower HRC (e.g., 52-56) is tougher and easier to sharpen but will dull quicker.
The Anatomy of a Knife: Parts You Should Know
Knowing the terms helps you understand what your looking at.
* Blade: The entire metal cutting section.
* Edge: The sharpened part of the blade.
* Spine: The top, unsharpened back of the blade. A thicker spine adds weight for chopping.
* Tip: The forward point of the knife, used for detailed work.
* Bolster: The thick junction between blade and handle on forged knives. It adds weight and balance and protects fingers.
* Tang: The part of the blade inside the handle.
* Handle: The material you grip. It can be wood, plastic (like PakkaWood), or composite materials.
* Rivets: The metal pins that secure the handle scales to the tang.
The Essential Knives You Actually Need
Forget the 20-piece block. Start with these core knives.
1. Chef’s Knife (8-inch is ideal)
This is your kitchen workhorse. You’ll use it for chopping vegetables, mincing herbs, slicing meat, and more. An 8-inch blade offers the best balance of control and versatility for most people. Some may prefer a 6-inch for smaller hands or a 10-inch for larger tasks.
2. Paring Knife (3-4 inch)
Your precision tool. Use it for peeling fruits and vegetables, deveining shrimp, coring strawberries, and other small, intricate tasks where a large chef’s knife is too clumsy.
3. Serrated Bread Knife (8-10 inch)
The long, scalloped edge is perfect for slicing through bread, cakes, and tomatoes without crushing them. It’s also great for foods with a hard exterior and soft interior. A good bread knife rarely needs sharpening.
Optional but Highly Useful Additions:
* Utility Knife (5-6 inch): A nimble all-rounder between a chef’s and paring knife, great for slicing cheese, lunch meats, and medium-sized produce.
* Santoku Knife (5-7 inch): A Japanese-style knife with a sheepsfoot blade (no curved belly). Excellent for a straight up-and-down chopping motion.
* Boning/Fillet Knife (Flexible): Essential if you breakdown meat or fish regularly. The flexible blade follows bones and contours.
Finding the Perfect Fit: Handle and Balance
A knife must feel like an extension of your hand.
Handle Comfort: Grip the knife. It should feel secure and comfortable in your dominant hand, whether you use a pinch grip or a handle grip. There should be no hot spots or areas that feel awkward. Common handle materials include:
* Wood: Beautiful and warm, but requires more care (hand-wash only, occasional oiling).
* PakkaWood/Composite: Durable, water-resistant, and offers good grip.
* Plastic/Polymer: Very durable, dishwasher-safe on some models, and affordable.
Balance Point: Pinch the knife at the bolster or where the blade meets the handle (the “heel”). A well-balanced knife will feel steady, not tipping toward the blade or the handle. Good balance reduces hand fatigue.
Putting It to the Test: How to Evaluate a Knife In-Store
If you can, always try before you buy. Here’s what to do:
1. Grip It: Hold it in a natural cutting grip. Does it feel secure?
2. Check the Weight: It should feel substantial but not heavy. You should be able to control it easily.
3. Balance Test: As described above, find the balance point.
4. The Paper Test (if allowed): Gently try slicing through a piece of printer paper held in the air. A sharp knife will cut cleanly with little pressure. Note: Store demo knives may be dull, so this isn’t always a perfect test.
5. Consider the Handle: Is it shaped for right or left hands? Are the seams smooth?
Your Maintenance Plan: Sharpening and Honing
A dull knife is a dangerous knife—it requires more force and is more likely to slip. Maintenance is non-negotiable.
* Honing: Uses a honing steel (a rod) to realign the microscopic teeth on the knife’s edge. It doesn’t remove metal. Do this frequently, before or after each use.
* Sharpening: Actually grinds away metal to create a new edge. This is needed 1-2 times a year for home cooks, depending on use. Options include:
* Whetstones: The best method for control and result. Requires practice.
* Manual Pull-Through Sharpeners: Good for beginners; choose a quality 2-stage model.
* Professional Sharpening: A great option if you don’t want to DIY.
Setting Your Budget and Choosing a Brand
You don’t need to spend a fortune, but invest in the best you can afford for your core knives.
* Budget ($20-$50 per knife): Look for reputable brands like Victorinox Fibrox (stamped, high-performance) or Mercer. You can get incredibly functional tools here.
* Mid-Range ($75-$150 per knife): This is where you find excellent forged knives from brands like Wüsthof, Zwilling J.A. Henckels, and Messermeister. Great balance of quality and value.
* High-End ($200+ per knife): Japanese artisan brands (like Shun, Miyabi, Global) and custom makers. Often feature harder steels and specialized grinds.
Remember, a $50 knife that you keep sharp is better than a $300 knife that’s dull.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Buying
1. Buying a Giant Set: Sets often include filler knives you’ll never use. It’s better to buy individual, high-quality pieces.
2. Ignoring Ergonomics: A knife that feels wrong in your hand is the wrong knife, no matter how highly it’s rated.
3. Assuming Price = Quality: While often correlated, a higher price doesn’t automatically mean it’s the right knife for you.
4. Forgetting About Maintenance: Factor in the cost and method of sharpening. A super-hard Japanese steel knife is pointless if you won’t get it sharpened properly.
5. Dishwasher Danger: Always hand-wash and immediately dry your good knives. The dishwasher dulls blades and destroys handles.
Building Your Starter Kit: A Step-by-Step Plan
1. Assess Your Cooking: Do you bake bread? Break down whole chickens? Mostly chop veggies?
2. Set a Total Budget: Decide what you can spend on your core kit.
3. Prioritize: Allocate most of your budget to a great Chef’s Knife.
4. Add the Essentials: Next, get a Paring Knife and a Serrated Bread Knife.
5. Get the Tools: Purchase a honing steel and plan for a sharpening method (stone, tool, or service).
6. Store Them Safely: Use a magnetic knife strip, a knife block with individual slots, or in-drawer blade guards. Never toss them loose in a drawer.
By following this guide, you can make informed choices and select knives that will serve you well for countless meals to come. The perfect knife is the one that feels right and makes your time in the kitchen easier and more effective.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What are the most important features in a kitchen knife?
The most important features are the blade steel (for edge retention), the construction (full tang for durability), the handle comfort, and the overall balance. How it feels in your hand is paramount.
How much should I spend on a good chef’s knife?
You can find very capable chef’s knives for $40-$80 (e.g., Victorinox). A solid mid-range workhorse from a major German brand typically costs $100-$150. Invest in the best you can comfortably afford for this primary tool.
Can I just buy a knife set instead of individual pieces?
You can, but it’s often not the best value. Sets include knives you may not need. Building your own set piece-by-piece ensures each knife is one you’ll actually use and love. If you do buy a set, examine what’s included carefully.
How often do I need to sharpen my knives?
With regular honing, a good kitchen knife will need professional or at-home sharpening about 1-2 times per year under normal home use. If you cook daily, you might need it more frequently.
What’s the difference between honing and sharpening?
Honing realigns the existing edge using a steel and should be done often. Sharpening actually removes metal to create a new edge and is done less frequently. Honing maintains sharpness; sharpening restores it.
Are Japanese or German knives better?
It depends on your style. German knives (Wüsthof, Zwilling) are typically heavier, with a curved blade suited for a rocking chop. They use slightly softer steel that’s more forgiving. Japanese knives (Shun, Global) are often lighter, harder, and sharper, suited for precise, push-cut slicing. They require more care. Neither is universally “better.”
Is a knife block necessary?
No, but safe storage is. A block is one convenient option, but ensure it has individual slots so blades don’t rub. Magnetic strips and in-drawer trays are excellent alternatives that save counter space.
What knife should I buy as a gift?
A high-quality, versatile 8-inch Chef’s Knife from a known brand is a fantastic gift. Consider a pairing knife or a serrated bread knife if you know the person already has a good chef’s knife. Include a note about professional sharpening as a nice touch.